Hognose Captive Care
see hognose.com for detailed care sheets

"N. American Hognose snakes are found in temperate zones that  range from a low of well below zero in winter to highs over 100 degrees Fahrenheit during the summer. Despite these extremes, Heterodon has been able to function effectively throughout its range.

Heterodonís reputation for adaptability is well known to herpetoculturists who keep and breed them. Of the Heterodon group, the Western Hognose is by far the easiest to maintain, breed and raise, much more so than other species of Heterodon, and can be kept as easily by the novice as well as the expert herpetoculturist."

taken from the site of  hognose.com

Basic Requirements
  1. Heating
    • Temperature gradient ranging from 76F (low end) to 86F (high end), nighttime drops into the low 70's.
    • Use thermometers to accurately gauge the temps.
    • NEVER use a hot rock
  2. Water
    • Provide clean water at all times. This will usually provide enough humidity, and you might often see your snake bathing in it.
    • I use a Rubbermaid container with a hole cut in the top to provide the snake a sense of security.
  3. Hide Boxes
    • Your snake will need somewhere it can "hide" in order to feel secure and lead a stress free life. The absence of stress is vital to its health.
    • A plastic flower pot base with an appropriate sized opening cut into one side works very well.
    • If you choose to make a "natural" looking vivarium for your snake, make sure that you research the snake's place of origin in order to make a natural vivarium that mimics the snake's natural surroundings.
  4. Substrate
    • I use newspaper on my larger snakes, and plain paper towels on my smaller ones. I find it easy to clean, and messes are very easy to notice at a glance.
    • If you prefer to use a "natural" type substrate, again research the serpentís natural local for the appropriate type.
    • If you cannot AVOID BARK or any other types of SHAVINGS, them you need to feed the snake in a SEPARATE enclosure. Bark and wood chips can easily be ingested by the snake during feeding, causing serious or FATAL problems. (Use only untainted aspen shavings as cedar, redwood, and possibly pine are toxic)
  5. Handling
    • One of the first things people naturally want to do with their new snake is to handle it. Ideally, the snake shouldn't be messed with in any sort for a week or two. This gives the snake plenty of time to accommodate to it's new surroundings and begin to feel secure. Try and give it as much time as possible to make the adjustment. Most serpents can live in excess of 10 years, so there'll be plenty of time for handling in the future.
    • You also need to watch for parasites and/or worms in the stool of the herp. And be sure to Quarantine any new acquisitions for 90 days to avoid the spread of disease.
  6. Feeding
    • I feed my snakes pre-killed whenever possible. Hogs can be hard to get onto thawed though, don't get frustrated.
    • They naturally eat toads in the wild, and it's normal to have to scent the pinkies in order to bring them onto the unnatural feeding of rodents.